Footwear on the X-machine Part 2: From Yarn to Upper

Collaborating with Footfalls & Heartbeats (UK), we utilised the X-machine to push the boundaries of footwear design through exploration and experimentation. Our project began with a curiosity to expand the form of the knitted upper, challenging conventional cut & sew practice and fostering a dynamic approach to design.

This journey took us down two distinct paths: post-consumer recycled polyester and Merino wool. Each yarn, with its own story to tell, provided insights into the intricate relationship between yarn and machine.

In our studio, we have a fondness for Australian Merino wool, aiming to deliver a 360 - around foot experience of the fibres softness, breathability, and natural resilience. Its lesser known qualities, temperature-regulation and odour control, come alive when integrated with breathable and form fitting structures. We found the medium-fine gauge yarn offered a balance of strength and softness, ensuring durability without compromising the fibres next to skin qualities. 

Our synthetic rendition of this shoe offers durability, longevity, and shape retention amidst continuous bending, stretching, and abrasion. The fine count of polyester yarn creates a tight knitted fabric that is flexible and lightweight, facilitating intricate structures and designs. Combined with the polyester melting yarn, Grilon, it forms a mono yarn shoe that can be recycled and recirculated in the supply chain.

In both instances, we enhanced the collar of the upper with extra support and rigidity by incorporating Grilon yarn. This low-melt yarn binds the knit together when subject to heat, moulding it into a desirable shape and providing durability.

Santoni’s X-Machine has revolutionised our approach to footwear design. Utilising yarn allocation, stitch design combination and heat setting we can create upper designs at high speeds with all features integrated. Contact us to join this exciting exploration of possibilities.

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